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"How much do you think these things are actually worth?" I touched a small bronze statue that was selling for 50 euros.
"It's not about the price anymore," S said as she flipped through old postcards with cursive handwriting all over them. "They're selling these things to give them a new life. There's meaning behind that." She smiled at me.
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effortlesschic.com
Every year this time around my birthday, the wind comes and the leaves begin to fall. I walk out in my boots and scarves and just can't help but feel a tingle of warmth inside me. There's something words can't describe about the beauty of this season, about the moment you step outside into the crisp autumn air, and discover, that almost over night, life around you has turned into these fabulous shades of reddish golden brown. And that those beautiful leaves around you, even in their parting, bid farewell in such splendid fashion, choosing not to mourn the end of their time, but rather celebrate the beginning of something fresh and new ahead.
And so Fall is a time of gathering of friends and family. In New York, it would have been over coffee at the latest coffee shop or perhaps a stroll on the High Line before seeing the view of the Brooklyn Bridge at nightfall. But in Paris, it's about secret places and intimate ambiances, either below in a cave or up on a rooftop.
1) Nanashi
Tucked away at the back of a posh children's clothing boutique in Saint Germain des Prés, this Modern Japanese European restaurant is the perfect spot for brunching on weekends or just an afternoon tea or coffee.
Inside, soft pillows and wooden chairs provides an atmosphere of comfort and intimacy. Outside, the charming private terrace allows a quiet backdrop for long conversations.
All foods are fresh and organic. The brunch bento box mixes the perfect blend of meats, starch and veggies that leaves you feeling healthy and refreshed.
2) Le Perchoir Rooftop
A random queue in front of a no-name entrance, before you're ushered up a small elevator to this gorgeous rooftop. Although Le Perchoir may not be as much of a secret as it used to be, it still remains one of the most intimate Parisian spots for drinks before sundown. Share a bottle of rosé with a whole new view of the Parisian landscape before you.
bhv.fr
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Finally, a little update about me:
My weeks have been flying by since classes began in September, front-loaded with 6 hours of class per day (!!!) first half of the week, then followed by a long busy weekend of engagements. I've been living this sort of double life, a student on campus turned grown up when back in Paris, getting my fair dose of HEC campus parties and events (more on that later) all the while doing such things like...visiting new born babies, inviting future parent-in-laws over for dinner, going to apartment warming crémaillères, receiving friends from Hong Kong, Singapore, Atlanta and New York, and of course dinners and soirées that is just...that...no more clubbing (oh la la). So I apologize for disappearing off the internet for a month without notice. Alas, I am alive and well, and missing, of course, blogging. :p
Just once per year for a weekend, the Élysée Palace, private residence of the President opens up for public viewing. And so this saturday, my friends and I stood in line for eight hours (yes. eight. whole. hours) just to be able to take a walk inside the most prestigious French castles of all.
back of the residence
library
salon
Salle des Fêtes. Ideal setting for official ceremonies.
Fine silverware from the 19th century
18th century cookware currently still in use to serve the President
precious silverware still in use today
the rooftop terrace allows guards to patrol the area
As you may have noticed, I have a thing for château's, especially French ones. They always tell wonderful stories of history's great civilizations' rise and fall. And somehow, you are always reminded that history...always repeats itself.
They say the best way to discover a city is to walk everywhere. You'll discover things you never realized was there.
After lunch one day, I decided to wander around the 9th. It soon began to rain and I came across Passage Jouffroy, a little pathway with skylights that connect two main streets through a building. Perfectly made for a rainy day.
With a wax museum, a vintage bookstore, a tea room, a home decor boutique, an art gallery, as well as a store selling miniature homes and furnishings (from mini tables to kitchen appliances, paintings to little pastries, flower pots to silverware!), this passage had it all.
Passage Jouffroy
At the vintage book store, I found all these great discounted books - on architecture, photography, interior design, food, history, science, short stories, the list goes on. There was even one with full page pictures of Audrey Hepburn for just 10 euros. The perfect addition for our coffee table. :)
As I'm furnishing our apartment right now, discovering new shops is the perfect way to collect things to fill the home. Although our style is more on the minimalist-modern-contemporary side, there's nothing wrong with adding a little bit of rustic vintage to the collection.
Passage Jouffroy
Musée Grévin wax museum
While the passages are not long (though Passage Jouffroy does have this wax museum), there are also many other ones nearby that you can visit along the way, including:
Happy discovering!
cafés
Flâner [French; verb]: The act of wandering or strolling down the streets, with no particular aim in mind, always with an air of cultural and intellectual curiosity but never without a Parisian kind of cool detached nonchalance.
Only in Paris is it entirely acceptable to forever indulge in the pleasures of life, so much that August has unofficially become the vacation month of the year, whereby every family (regardless of one's economic situation) all leave for at least two weeks of proper vacation.
And so August in Paris is a quiet time (minus the tourists) of nothing but sunshine, cafés, brunches, cinemas, and of course, musées and soirées.
cafés on the Seine
Friday night, we went to a close friend of W's for some drinks. After climbing up an elegant wooden staircase with sultry red carpeting (typical of most Parisian residences), we entered an intimate setting of dim lights and light chatter. It was a small gathering of about ten people. A few guys were whisking up drinks, while by the large window sat the girls on a big red couch, puffing smoke elegantly from their bright red lips. They appeared to be in midst of some discussion, occasionally raising their eyebrows and shrugging while speaking rapid French. French girls have this way of making you curious about their conversation yet at the same time timid about approaching them.
T and M introduced me to their friends, which meant exchanging kisses with each of them on both cheeks. After some brief introductions, I grabbed a stick with tomatoes, cheese and sausage, and started munching on it. Conversation was light, and I managed to produce some basic French, noting happily that no one has yet elected to switch to English. Someone handed me a cocktail, and then it was just nothing but quiet, intimate talk. We climbed up to the roof a bit later (which felt sneaky because it's forbidden). With a beautiful view of Paris' lights at nightfall, we sat there slightly tipsy in relaxed conversation.
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Despite our love of soirées and flâner-ing, W and I woke up the next day bright and early, with a list of scheduled (fun, cultural, foodie) activities I had already scouted out during the week (W is actually very unFrench in his way of sharing my obsessive needs to plan and be productive, much to the perplexity of his friends).
So we checked off the list one-by-one: tennis, swimming, museums, brunch, furniture shopping, and more...museums (and expos).
galleries/museums
Paris is a capital of art and museums, everything from the traditional to contemporary, eclectic to the avant-garde. Arts and culture is so heavily subsidized by the government (unsurprisingly) that museums are free the first Sunday of the month (or otherwise a mere 10 euros for most places), and sport activities are equally cheap (4 euros for swimming, 7 euros for an hour of tennis court time!!). And..there are more discounts for people under 26. Yup, it's ridiculous.
So we went to:
I finally stumbled upon number 158 on Boulevard Haussmann, a street full of handsome residences I could only dream of living in one day. Only a small red banner tucked behind the trees indicated signs of this little musée, as if it didn't want to be found. Oh, subtlety, even when being pretentious, has always been such a French thing.
a small red banner of the museum
path leading to the entrance of the mansion
The end of July marks the second month that I've been in the City of Lights. When I haven't been traveling, I've been strolling the streets, getting to know each arrondissement and its personality. Today, apartment affairs took me to the 8th for the signing of dossiers, so I had the opportunity to explore this very proper part of Paris with mostly large office buildings and elegant residences.
In the very French tradition (of secret passages and courtyards), the grand entrance of the mansion was tucked away in the back, led by a path from what one would believe to be very typical French front doors off Boulevard Haussmann.
Édouard André and wife Nelie were the sole owners of this residence. They had no children, but as passionate and knowledgeable patrons of art, spent their whole lives collecting Venetian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings, tapestry and statues to collect in this home.
foyer/entry room
green room
The décor and rooms all reflect an aristocrat's life in 18th century France: Édouard was born into a Protestant banking family. Nelie, however, I will let you discover on your own as to where she came from. :)
The home reminded me much of the Newport Mansions in Rhode Island, USA. Unlike art in homes there however, which were bought in entire collections (just to reflect one's wealth), the paintings in Jacquemart-André were a life's worth of work, curated by far more knowledgeable patrons who devoted themselves to art.
details on the ceiling of the Salon
elegant staircases
the two story grand ballroom, 16th century tapestries on the second floor
The first surprise of the mansion came with the sheer size and grandeur of it all. Property is incredibly expensive in Paris, and the fact that this mansion still stands today on one of the most sought after streets is quite incredible (most of the mansions along 5th ave in NYC have long been destroyed to pave way for modern infrastructure).
And the second surprise? The incredible variety in rooms. I won't spoil it with photos, but from green rooms to libraries, ballrooms to studies, rooms for art collections to actual residential bedrooms, this property has it all.
Oh, and if you're looking for some afternoon sun. Here are some free benches just in front of the museum. :)
Tips:
1. This is a gem of a museum in Paris. Go during the weekdays to avoid crowds.
2. The visit comes with an audio guide for free, and takes about 1.5 hours.
3. Come early in the afternoon so you can have some afternoon tea in the lovely, parisian, highly-rated café afterwards.
4. Admission: 10 Euros for students/ 12 Euros for others
I've been to Paris now on more than five different occasions for around 2-3 weeks each, mostly during Christmas and in the Spring. My boyfriend, who is from Paris, took me around to see all the touristy spots, but in uniquely French ways that I could have never discovered myself.
So I wanted to share with you guys a few of my favorite non-touristy tourist scenes in the City of Lights. See the best of Paris, but avoid the crowds and immerse yourself like a true parisian!
FOR THE PERFECT VIEW OF THE EIFFEL TOWER
Trocadero Landing. Yes, this is where all the surreal pictures of the Eiffel Tower is taken! Photo credit: http://blogs.ft.com/photo-diary/tag/eiffel-tower/
#1 Tracadero Station landing
Don't go to the Eiffel Tower to view the Eiffel Tower! It's too tall! And who wants to spend 20 euros waiting in a ridiculous line just to go up an elevator and then come down again because it'll likely be too cold or rainy?! Yuck! Not fun!
On the Tracadero Station landing, you'll get a full breath-taking arial view of the Eiffel Tower and its gardens, fountains and pathways with the city's beautiful skyline as a backdrop. Oh, and the gentle breeze from the elevation makes it perfect for cuddling!! Who knew! ;)
Remember that the Eiffel Tower shimmers for ten minutes every hour after sunset! Catch it at the right time and you'll have the perfect picture souvenir! You're welcome!
OR
#2 Floating bars on the Seine
Skip the expensive Seine dinner cruise, and be utterly French when you enjoy a glass of wine on a restaurant/bar on the Seine that has views of the Eiffel Tower. There are many "floating" restaurants, so just walk around and find one that has outdoor seating. Great views and great company for 8 euros. Not bad!
FOR A TRUE PARISIAN SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
shopping in Le Marais - December 2013
Just like how you would never actually shop on 5th Ave New York, don't go to the Champs-Elysees' unless you want to run into the same international brands (LVMH, Hermes, etc.) you see everywhere in the world! Try these quaint shopping neighborhoods instead for a true Parisian experience.
#1 Le Marais
With cobble-stoned pathways and beautiful 18th century homes, Le Marais is filled with boutiques, art galleries, bars and restaurants. Under dim lamps and drizzling rain, you'll feel infinitely Parisian strolling down these streets while you shop your heart out. :)
OR
Bars, restaurants, shops, and an open market! Yes, open markets with cheese, meats, and bread are what the French are all about. On this street, you'll really understand what it means to be ohhhh so French.
FOR THE PERFECT PARISIAN AFTERNOON
enjoying the sun while people watching in the Jardin des Tuileries :) - May 2012
The French loveee to enjoy their afternoons with a book or glass of wine, and the city is filled with parks and cafés for this very reason.
#1 Take a walk in the gardens at Jardin des Tuileries and sit on one of the many benches to soak up the sun. Then head to Angelina for their famous hot chocolate and afternoon treats.
OR
#2 Skip the fancy lunch! Pick your favorite park and buy some sandwich baguettes instead for a simple picnic in the park! You'll find plenty of people lazing around on the lawn enjoying the sun. Yet another great way to people-watch and enjoy Paris with the people you love!
Okay! That's it for now! I hope you enjoyed these tips and feel free to comment below with your favorite non-touristy tourist spots in Paris! <3 Happy sharing!
until next time ;)
XOXO